DOWNSTREAM_WIRE_BYTES_SENT in listener access logs doesn't work

Title: DOWNSTREAM_WIRE_BYTES_SENT in listener access logs doesn't work

Description: Config:

admin:
  access_log_path: "/dev/null"
  address:
    socket_address:
      address: 0.0.0.0
      port_value: 15000
node:
  id: id
  cluster: test
static_resources:
  listeners:
  - name: listener_0
    address:
      socket_address:
        protocol: TCP
        address: 0.0.0.0
        port_value: 10000
    filter_chains:
    - filters: []
    accessLog:
    - name: envoy.access_loggers.file
      typedConfig:
        '@type': type.googleapis.com/envoy.extensions.access_loggers.file.v3.FileAccessLog
        logFormat:
          jsonFormat:
            # Either one triggers it
            downstream_header_bytes_sent: '%DOWNSTREAM_HEADER_BYTES_SENT%'
            downstream_wire_bytes_sent: '%DOWNSTREAM_WIRE_BYTES_SENT%'
        path: /dev/stdout

  clusters: []

Any request will then fail:

[2022-06-17 09:33:19.008][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:104] Caught Segmentation fault, suspect faulting address 0x0
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.008][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:91] Backtrace (use tools/stack_decode.py to get line numbers):
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.008][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:92] Envoy version: 4a5f2c7e624e84f131cd69127f16919b80265d8a/1.23.0-dev/Clean/RELEASE/BoringSSL
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.008][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #0: __restore_rt [0x7fb860423200]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.014][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #1: Envoy::Formatter::StreamInfoUInt64FieldExtractor::extractValue() [0x55a3c347845c]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.023][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #2: Envoy::Formatter::StreamInfoFormatter::formatValue() [0x55a3c34716e6]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.028][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #3: Envoy::Formatter::StructFormatter::providersCallback() [0x55a3c346cbf6]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.033][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #4: std::__1::__function::__func<>::operator()() [0x55a3c34823bb]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.038][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #5: absl::variant_internal::VisitIndicesSwitch<>::Run<>() [0x55a3c348213d]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.043][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #6: Envoy::Formatter::StructFormatter::structFormatMapCallback() [0x55a3c346cf38]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.048][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #7: Envoy::Formatter::StructFormatter::format() [0x55a3c346c0da]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.054][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #8: Envoy::Formatter::JsonFormatterImpl::format() [0x55a3c346bf39]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.059][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #9: Envoy::Extensions::AccessLoggers::File::FileAccessLog::emitLog() [0x55a3c32d5a06]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.064][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #10: Envoy::Server::ActiveTcpConnection::~ActiveTcpConnection() [0x55a3c35c6512]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.069][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #11: Envoy::Server::ActiveTcpConnection::~ActiveTcpConnection() [0x55a3c35c660e]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.073][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #12: Envoy::Server::ActiveTcpListener::newActiveConnection() [0x55a3c35c3f8c]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.078][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #13: Envoy::Server::ActiveStreamListenerBase::newConnection() [0x55a3c35c5b70]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.083][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #14: Envoy::Server::ActiveTcpSocket::newConnection() [0x55a3c35c81b5]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.087][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #15: Envoy::Server::ActiveTcpSocket::continueFilterChain() [0x55a3c35c864b]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.092][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #16: Envoy::Server::ActiveStreamListenerBase::onSocketAccepted() [0x55a3c35c3a90]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.096][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #17: Envoy::Server::ActiveTcpListener::onAcceptWorker() [0x55a3c35c39d2]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.100][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #18: Envoy::Network::TcpListenerImpl::onSocketEvent() [0x55a3c3613428]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.104][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #19: std::__1::__function::__func<>::operator()() [0x55a3c35f6121]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.109][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #20: Envoy::Event::FileEventImpl::assignEvents()::$_1::__invoke() [0x55a3c35f763c]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.113][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #21: event_process_active_single_queue [0x55a3c3712230]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.118][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #22: event_base_loop [0x55a3c3710c41]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.122][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #23: Envoy::Server::WorkerImpl::threadRoutine() [0x55a3c2f059cd]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.127][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #24: Envoy::Thread::ThreadImplPosix::ThreadImplPosix()::{lambda()#1}::__invoke() [0x55a3c3925923]
[2022-06-17 09:33:19.127][2181325][critical][backtrace] [external/envoy/source/server/backtrace.h:96] #25: start_thread [0x7fb860418d80]